Sunday, July 22, 2012

SPF, What is the right one for your skin type?

I have been interested in Skin Care for several yrs now.  I try my best to stay out of the sun and when I am in the sun I do my best to keep on an SPF.  I started getting alot of questions about this lately with all the laws changing on how sunscreens/sunblocks are labeled.  So I decided to do my best to educate my self and the people around me to the best of my ability.  I'm not a doctor or scientist.  I just got scared and now watch my exposure.  Do you know what you are buying, what the numbers mean and what is best for your skin type???

I met my husband almost 10 yrs ago.  After 3 days of knowing him I noticed some abnormal cells on his face.  Right away we went to see a Dermatologist and he was diagnosed with AK.  That was enough to make this sun loving thirty something girl stay out of the sun.  My husband was never in the sun like I was.  This exposure was on the left side of his face and was from the sun shining on his face as he drove home from work each morning.  He worked night shift so he drove to work in the dark.  I figured if his little bit of sun expose could do that .....What was all the yrs of sun loving going to do to me?  I had worked during college at a tanning salon and I spent every extra min I had pool side growing up.  I could get very dark and enjoyed doing so.

So let me start with a bit of education.  The Sun emits 3 types of radiation.  UVA, UVB AND UVC.
UVC is the one that never makes it to earth and is absorbed by the atmosphere.  So that's one thing we don't have to worry about.  UVA is the one that causes (1)pre-mature aging, (2)damaging cancer cells and (3)free radicals.  UVB causes the burning and redness we see on our skin.  For yrs now Sunscreen was required to screen out or block the UVB.  So even if we were diligent using sunblock it didn't even filter the dangerous UVA rays that cause CANCER.

There are also 3 types of products we can use for sun protection.  The first one is called a PHYSICAL FILTER.  These work rapidly.  They are natural and they reflect light away from our skin.  They feel thick and tacky.  They are esp. good if you have acne prone skin, sensitive skin or rosaccea.  The other is called a CHEMICAL ABSORBER.  These take about 20 min to be absorbed and ready to work.  They usually are thinner in consistency than the physical filters and so more pleasing to use.  These work well on aging skin.  The 3rd is a blend of the first two called a Blended or Broad Spectrum Sunscreen.

The UVA rays are 95% of the rays that hit our skin and they are the ones that hit the deeper layers of our skin.  It often takes yrs for us to see they damage they have caused.  The UVB are about 5% of the rays that hit our skin.  They make us red and burn and often we see their effects within 24 hours.

Just a few facts:

3.5 million Americans are diagnosed with Skin Cancer each yr in the US.  Of those 65% are Melanoma...the deadly one.  Sun exposure is the #1 cause of aging skin.  Lastly, 80% of sun rays reflect on the snow.  Yes, sunscreen should be worn year round.

How much should u apply:  Just for your face about 1/2 teaspoon.  If you get it too thin you wont get the right SPF coverage listed on the bottle you chose.  Apply a shot glass full (1-2 ounces) for your whole body and reapply frequently.  Apply to dry skin and re-apply after sweating, swimming and after 2 to 3 hrs of sun exposure. 

Myths about SPF:

If your sunscreen has an SPF of 30 and your foundation has an SPF of 10 does it total 40?
NO.  You should always put your sunscreen on first.  It needs to be absorbed for a min of 20 min. So you will have an SPF of 30.  What you put on first is what u should count.  Whats in your makeup is better than nothing if its all you have but often makeup cracks and wears off so it is not a good protection.  However, if your makeup still looks great and its not wearing off then u know it has protected your sunscreen and you wont need to reapply the sunscreen as often.

Is it OK to use last yrs  sunscreen?
Yes!  This was news to me.  However if u are using it right.  You wont have any left to use.  It should be used year round.  It does usually have a 2 year shelf life. 

Does double the SPF mean you double your protection? 

NO.  If a 15 is good a 30 is not double the protection and a 60 is not double that.  I find different percentages on this but basicly an SPF of 15 screens 93% of the rays, the 30 screens 97 % and 60 screens 99%.  You are better to buy a 15 - 30 and re-apply than spend the big money on a 100 SPF and never reapplying it. 

What the SPF really means:
If it takes u 15 min to burn with nothing on.  Then an SPF of 2 will mean u can stay out 30 before the burn (2x as long).  If u had a 10 it would take 2.5 hrs. 
SPF only covers the UVB nothing for the UVA so make sure u have a broad spectrum lotion that will cover UVA as well.

Other things u can do to help with the suns damage:
1)  Taking anti-oxidants will help with the free radicals
2)  Wear a Sunhat with a large brim when possible
3)  Wear a lip balm with a good sunscreen in it as well
4)  Wear a good after sun moisturizer.


OK...so here are a few examples of Sunscreens

Physical Filters:
1)  Zinc Oxide -  Is a thick consistency.  Used as an astringent, promotes wound healing and as a sunscreen.  Good for sensitive skin, acne, oil control, and UVB blocking.

2) Titatium DiOxide - is often added to products for hypoallergenic coverage as well as for a complete block. 

Both of these are great physical sunblocks that have good coverage and no allergic reactions, they are waterproof, chemical free, and provide superior coverage for UVA and good for UVB.  The disadvantages are they give a mask like or opaque appearance to the skin and this may even show up in pictures so not recommended in your wedding day photo shoot!


Chemical Absorbers:

  
Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) UVB - the major one used until the 1980's in the US
Avobenzone UVA1
Cinoxate UVB
Dioxybenzone UVB, UVA2
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX) UVA2 - available in Europe and Canada.  Patented by L'Oreal and maybe the best UVA sunscreen available today. 
Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimiazole Sulfonic Acid) UVB
Homosalate UVB
Meradimate (Menthyl Anthranilate) UVA2
Octocrylene UVB
Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate) UVB
Octisalate ( Octyl Salicylate) UVB
Oxybenzone UVB, UVA2
Padimate O UVB
Sulisobenzone UVB, UVA2
Trolamine Salicylate UVB


Examples of SUNSCREEN:


FACE:

     phy or natural:  Devita Solar Protective SPF 30
     chemical:  Josie Maran Argan Daily Moisturizer SPF 40
     blended:  Neutragena Ultra Sheer Dry SPF 40

BODY:

     physical:   DeVita SPF30
     chemical:  Kiss My Face Spray SPF 30
     blend:  Alba Botanica SPF 30

    
Examples of tanning products:

     Australian Gold SPF 8 spray
     Australian Gold SPF 15 sheer lotion



Hope this helps and that I haven't confused you even more.  I'm thinking next I may tackle self tanners.  Of if you have another skin issue u would like to see talked about please let me know.  I enjoy looking up things about the skin.  So just ask.

FORGOT TO ADD THIS RECIPE FOR A HOMEMADE SUNSCREEN.  Ive never made it but wanted to share it with all my friends who love the homemade and money saving ideas.

SPF 15 , Natural and non toxic

2 T virgin coconut oil
1T shea butter
1/2 t sesame oil
1/2 t aloe vera gel
2 t zinc oxide

Mix the first 4 ingredients and slowly melt.  Remove from heat and add the zinc oxide until it melts.  Store in a dark glass light sensitive jar.  Product will be good for 6 months. 

Receipe found on Gorgeouslygreen.com



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